No 23. Stickleback Zonker

Stickleback Zonker 

When fish is feeding on smal baitfish as stickleback this can be a good fly. 

In some of my water that i frequently fish in, grey is a alround color and therfore works realy good all year round. 

When we fish for grayling in the stream in northern Sweden a little gray Zonker sometimes can  be really effective.

Materiallist
Hook: Maruto W12 size 8 or 6
Thread: Gray
Butt. Glo Brite floss. Hot orange.
Body: Dubbing, HareÉ Ice dub, gray.
Throat: A small bunch of red rabbit hair
Wing: Gray zonker strip, 1,5 mm wide
Head/front body: Gray zonker looked in a b dubbing loop. Twisted and winded towards the hookeye. Then combed and trimmed.
Eyes: 3 mm 3d epoxy eyes. Glued and coverd with UV resin.

If you want a heavier fly you can add some turns of leadwire under the body.

No 22. Foam caddis nymph

Foam Caddis nymph

This is a nice looking pattern för imitating free swiming caddis nymph on their way upp to the surface for hatching. 

If you want it stay just under the surface you can add 6-7 turns off lead wire.

Of course you can vary the color to match 

Materiallist

Thread: Brown.

Hook: Curved nymph hook sice 10 or 12.

Eyes: 0,5mm mono melted in the ends. About 3mm wide. 

Body: A smal strip of 1mm tan foam. The strip should be about 5 cm long and cut so that one end is about 1-1,45 mm wide ande the other end about 2-3 mm wide. One of the strips edges should then be painted with a brown markerpen. 

Wing buds. 1 mm thick tan foam that has been gently heated and flatend between thumb and forefinger. Then cut in to shape and colored with the brown markerpen. 

Hackle: Grey or brown partridge.

Antenna: Two fiber from pheasat tail feather.

Head and frontbody: Hares ear dubbing.

No 20. Braided damsell

Braided Damsell

Tying description

Hook: Kamsan B110 size 10

Thread: Olive

Eyes: 0.50 mm nylonmono that is burned on the ends. The eyes should be 3-4 mm wide

Tail: braided mono burned at one end. 

Before the melted plastic lump become solidi again flatten it between thumb and forefinger. 

To get the right shape you have to draw a little light in the braided mono so that the lump gets a bit stretched. 

Do not forget to moisten your fingers with a little saliva so you do not burn your fingertips.

Then you cut the shape of the tail with a sharp pair of scissors and color it with olive waterproof marker.

Thorax cover and wing buds: 4mm olive-body stretch.

Thorax: 3mm or 3.2 mm brass goldhead closest to the eyes, and then a few laps Olive Medium Crystal hackle.

Head. The eyes pupils is then painted black with a markerpen and then covered with UV resin.

Good luck and enjoy 

No 17. Wiggling Gummi Creaps

 Wiggling Gummi Creaps

Material list

Abdomen 

Hook: 1st Mustad S71SZ Size 6

Thread: Black

Tail: 2 black-red sili legs.

Body: Black Spectra Dubbing

Legs: The same sili legs as used for the tail but the black part.

Front body

Link to the abdomen: 0.35 to 0.40 mm fluorocarbon

Hook: 1st S71SZ Size 6

Thread: Black

Eyes: Silver Medium (about 3mm) dumbbell eyes with yellow / black flat stick eyes glued on the dumbell.

Tail: 2 black-red silicone legs.

Body: Black Spectra dubbing. Dub also between the eyes.

Legs: The same sili legs as used for the tail but the black part.

1. 
   

1.Start by attaching the tying thread on the hook to be abdomens hook. Wrap the thread to the hook bend.

2. Attach the sili legs folded double to make the four red ends pointing backward like a tail. Wrap the leftover black parts forward to the hook eye.

3. Dub a tapered body with black Spectra dubbing forward to just behind the hook eye.

4. Cut the loop with the black part of silicone legs. Fold them backwards beside of both sides of the hook so that there is two pieces on each side. Attach and cut the thread. Varnish the ending.

5. Continue to cut off the hook just at the bend.

6. Attach the hook for the front body and secure 5-6 cm fluorocarbon on the top of the hook. Secure the attachment with a drop of superglue.

7. Thread the abdomens on to the fluorocarbon. Fold the fluorocarbon forwards so that the rear body dangles in a small loop. Attach fluorocarbon and secure with a drop of superglue. Cut of the remaining fluorocarbon.

8. Tie a similar body like the one on the abdomen with the tail and legs but end the body about 2-3 mm in front of the hook eye

9. Attach the dumbbell eyes. Secure with a drop of super glue.

10. Dub with figures of eights around the eyes. Attach and cut the thread. Varnish the ending.

11. Glue the flat stick eyes on the dumbbell eyes. I usually add a small drop of super glue under the eyes to be absolutely sure they are secure.

This fly has an incredibly seductive jigging movement in the water and can of course be tied in different color combinations. Variations of olive, white, orange and red tend to be toxic. The fly has been an incredible killer for fishing rainbowtrout in lakes and streams and for seatrout on the coast and in river and streams.

No 16. Olive Crystal Bugger.

This is a realy good pattern för rainbow troute. It imitates damsell nymphs and it works realy well when the trouts are a little picky in their choise of food.

Material list
Hook: Kamasan B 175 size 8-10
Head: 3,2 or 3,8 gold head. Brass or tungsten.
Thread: Olive
Tail: Wolly bugger marabou olive.
Body: Olive medium Crystal Hackle from Flybox.co.uk
Legs: 2 strands of Wapsi sili legs in color sand/orange
Fronthackle. Two turns of olive medium  Crystal hackle 

No 9. CDC Hatcher

CDC Hatcher

A fairly simple fly to tie the that often are cruelly effective when fish is crusingt and eating various insects in the surface. The fly can be varied in many color combinations and in various materials.
This particular variant is suited to fishing for hatching midges but by example tying in a couple of tails and tie a tapperad dubbed body with ribs we can imitate different hatching mayflies and excluded the tail we have a hatching caddispupa.
A basic pattern, in other words which is very adaptable to different fishing situations

CDC feathers have an incredibly good buoyancy and keeps much "air" both by the fine structure and its natural lubrication. 

 I prefer natural colored CDC feathers as they often have retained its natural lubrication. Colored CDC feathers have no natural fat when they are degreased so they can be dyed.

Materials List

Hook: Kamasan B100 Size 10-16 or similar hook. The important thing is that it's a curved hook  and with rather thin hook goods.

Thread: Black

Rib: A straw pearl flashabou

Body: Thin black flossilke or black binding wire.

Body Paint: Thin UV glue

Thorax: Peacook hearl

Wing bag: two pieces. gray or white cdc feathers. 

 1. Attach the flossilket or thread. Thread is prefered to the really small versions of this fly.

2. Tie in a straw flashabou and wrap flosset down to the bend. 

Cut away flashaboun sticking out the front of the hook shank / hook eye.

3. Wrap flossilket back and forth over the hook shank a few times so it forms a gently tapperad body. The body must cover about 2/3 of the hook shank.

4. Wrap flashaboun 6-7 laps forward over the body as a ribbing.

5. Apply a drop of thin UV varnish. 

I prefer Solarez UV products. It hardens incredibly well and is 100% non-stick

6. Distribute the UV varnish with a needle so it covers the hole body

7. Cure the UV varnisch a few seconds with a UV lamp.

8. Now take a CDC feather and attach it loosely in the spring tip of the hook over the side of the body beginning. The CDC feather must be attached so that the concave side, inwardly curved side facing up. The feather should be fastened so that it is located in a 30-degree angle out from the hook. 

Easily seen in the image nr10.

9. Pull back the cdc Feather slighty so it get the prefered angel and so that the tip does not protrude above the hook. Attach the feather a little harder with a pair of tighter turns with the thread.

10. Repete the procedure with the next feather. Here you see how the feathers are angled out from the hook.

11.

11-12. Tie in 3-4 peacook hearl on top, in between the CDC feathers

12,

13. Wind the peacock hearl forward towards the hook eye

14. Attach the hearl a few millimeters before the hook eye and cut off the remaining parts

15. We have now reached the stage where we should continue with the CDC feathers and now it is important that one has left little space between peacook hearl and the hook eye. Otherwise it will be too tight and there is a risk that you will cover parts of the hook eye when the fly is finished.

16. Take one of the cdc feathers and fold it over the chest so a small loop, bubble,  is formed. 

Secure with a couple of loose thread turns.

 

17. Adjust the feather loop by pulling the feather, for example with a hackle pliers while holding back the thread so it does not slide over the hook eye. The loop, the bubble, must should encapsulate the chest. This bubble has an amazing ability to trap air that contributes to the fly's buoyancy. Cut off the excess part of the cdc feather and attach it with a pair of tighter turns of thread.

 18. Repeat with the other feather.

19. From below you can see how the chest has been coverdt with the cdc feathers.

20. Cut away the rest of the second cdc feather also.

21. Finish with a small head. Attach and cut the thread. Varnish the head and the fly is finished

22. As i said, you can tye this type of flies in many varieties, but my favorites are this type, with either natural gray or white wing.

No 8. Tricolor Muddler.

Tricolor muddler has a color combination that is often found in my flypattern when i´m fishing after rainbow trout.
The combination of orange, yellow and white are often a winning combination and when it´s combined with deer hair as thorax / head we get a particularly poisonous fly.

Material list
Hook: Streamer hook strl 8-4
Thread: Heavy white tying thread
Tail: fluo orange marabou. The tail should be about 1/2 the length of the hook
Body: Pearl ice dub
Wing: Fluo yellow marabou. The wing should go back to the end of the tail on top of the wing I tie into 4 straw pearl flashabou
Head / over the wing. White deer hair.

No 7. The Parrot

The Parrot is a fly that I use often when the water temperature is a bit lower. Both sea trout and rainbow trout seem to like it.

Material list
Hook: Maruto C41SE. Streamer hook with a bent hook shank, size 4-8
Thread: Black
Tail: A small stack of hot orange fox hair. The length should be about 2/3 of the hook shank.
Body: Pearl Crystal hackle 5mm.
Wing: Fox hair. Yellow with green Highlander on top the yellow. The wing will reach back to the end of the tail. In between the different layers of the wing I tie in a 2 strands of pearl flashabou.
Hackle: A well marked Teal feather.
Overwing: A small stack of black fox hair tied in over the hackle and the yellow / green wing.
Head: Black tie wire lacquered 3-4 times and then painted eyes on the sides. White or yellow background with black pupills.
If you want to add some more weight to the flie you can use silver chain eys insted of painting the eyes.

No 3. Mickey Finn

Mickey Finn

               

Mickey Finn is one of my oldest fly pattern. I started to tie and fish with this fly in the 70's. It was already then a classic pattern with many year on it's neck. However, it still works and it gives me a special pleasure to fish with those Classic pattern. The original pattern was tid with bucktail for the wing but i prefere to use calf tail. I think it works better, special to smaler sizes of this fly. The color combination, yellow and orange or yellow and red, is a combination that attracts almost any kind of fish spices. 

For seatrout, fished from the costal, it is a god fly especially when the water is cold.
The pattern described I have adapted little by my way of tying flies on such I use some straw silver flashabou the body instead of the usual silver tinsel. I think it's easier with flashaboun wrap a sleek body as it fills out against the lead wire better. The original has not either painted eyes but as I really believe in that eyemarks on lures and flies makes them more interesting to the fish than if they did not have it so I add them on this pattern.

Material list

Hook: Streamer,4x long. Size 8-4. Here i have used Maruto I77, size 6

Weight: Flat lead wire

Thread: Black 

Body: 6-10 strands of  common silver flashabou.  

Rib: Oval silver tinsel.

Ving: Yellow and orange (or red) calf tail. 

Head: Black thread

Eyes: yellow and black paint like Humbrol.

Head coat: a thin layer of UV resin. 

Remember that it is not possible to paint the head with varnish containing solvents on the eyes if they were painted with water based acrylic paint. 

That's why I use thin UV resin lacquer

                             

1. Start by wrapping a layer of the flat lead wire around the hook shank. It must cover the hook shank from one to two mm behind the hook eye for one to two mm before the bend.

                         

2. Secure the lead wire with a pair of layers with thread

                         

3. Attach the oval silver tinsel behind the lead wire.  

                         

4. Wind the thread just behind te hook eye and take som strands (6-8) silver flashabou and attach dem just in front of the lead wire. 

5. Take the flashabou and wind them down towae´rd tht hook bend and then back again to the starting point just behind the hook eye. 

6. Secure the flashabou and cut away what is over of the flashabou.         

                           

                       

7. Follow with silver tinsel in 5-7 equally divided turns over the body.

8. Attach and cut of the rest.

9. Now take a small bunch of yellow calf tail. 

10. Place it on top of the hook shank. 

The bunch should protrude about 1/2 the time as far as the hook shank.

11. Attach the calf tail with three to four turns tying thread. 

Try to avoid so that the calf hairs stand out above the hook eye. 

It's very easy to otherwise cover the hook eye with materials that are difficult to remove when the fly is ready. 

12. Now take a thinner bunch of orange calf tail and tie it in on top of the yellow.  

12. The orange bunch should be tied in a little bit farther than the yellow.

13.I use to secure the hair with a little drop of varnish. 

14. Finally finish the wing with a third bunch of yellow calf tail on top of the other two. This one should also be tied in a little bit farther than the orange.

15. Secure the thread after forming a neat head. Cut of the thread anf varnish the head a couple of times. 

16. The fly should now look like this after you are ready with the varnish and it has dried properly.

17. Now it is time to paint the eyes. Take for example a toothpick or another round stick and dip the end into the yellow paint and paint where the eye's yellow basis by just stamp the color

18. Paint the eye's yellow basis by just stamping the color

19. After the yellow paint has dried, repeat it with the black color but with a thinner stick.

20. This is how the finished painting should look like. 

21. Finnaly. Apply a thin coat UV resin over the head and cure it with a UV lamp. 

The fly is now ready.