No 14. Sili Rabbit

CC Sili Rabbit, Black / Red

Hook: Mustad streamer Signature Saltwater S74SZ Size 4 or 6

Thread: Black

Eye / Weight: Silver dumbbell eyes or nickel / silver chain eyes

Tail: Three black-red silicone legs.

Body / Wing: Black cross cut Zonker.

Front: Four pearl crystal flash and two black-red silicone legs

1. Start by attaching the winding thread in the middle of the hook shank and wrap it back to the hook bend. Attach three sili legs that you first folded so that the red ends are facing each other. Attach them a few mm into the black part at the sili leg so that all the red ends are pointing backwards. Secure with a few turns of the winding thread.

2. Open up the loop that lies ahead of the hook shank with scissors. Fold them back over the red ends. Tie it in with a couple of turns whit the tying thread. Secure with a small drop of super glue.

3. Take strips of black cross cut Zonker and cut to the end of the strip to a sharp point and attach it just in front of the attachment of the tail. The hair should now be pointing backward.

4. Wrap the zonkerstrip forward toward the hook eye without letting the turns overlapping each other. Attach the strip with a few turns of thread a few millimeters before the hook eye.

5. Cut of the strip. Secure with a tiny drop of superglue. Attach four Pearl Crystal Flash lying on top of the fly. Cut them off at the end of the tail.

6. Then take two black-red sili legs and attach them a few mm into the black part at the sili leg so that the red ends are pointing backwards on one of the sides of the hook.

7. Fold the other red part and tie them in the same way on the other side of the hook.

8. Cut the sili legs loop pointing forward.

9. Fold the black ends of the red and secure them. There should now be four sili legs on each side of the hook, pointing backwards

10. Attach the eyes whit figure of eights just in front of the sili legs. Attach the thread. Cut and finish by securing the eyes with a small drop of super glue.

11. Glue the flat stick eyes on the dumbbell eyes. I usually add a small drop of super glue under the eyes to be absolutely sure they are secure.

This typ of flies can be combined in countless different color variants. Only your imagination sets the limits. I myself have had the most success with black, orange, red, olive and white varieties. I tye them in different weights by varies the choice of eyes.

No 13. Minizonker

Gray mini Zonker is a very simple pattern, both tying but also in the choice of materials.

I have a special love for simple flies in my practical fishing. I foten fish hard and it takes quite a few flies on my fishing trips. Mini Zonker has al that the ingredients that I look for. Simple and fast to tie. Of course you can also tye this type of fly in a larger sizes. I have managed quite well with the coastal fishing for sea trout on the coast of Skåne in Sweden with this fly. 

Materials list

Hook: Maruto SS-1930 Size 10-8

Thread: White. I like UTC 70 thread.

Body. 5-6 straw pearl flashabou that is wrap over the hook shank a couple of times back and forth. Remember not to go forward with the body until the hook eye.

If you want a really strong body. You can cover it with a layer of UV varnish / glue.

Wing: A short gray Zonker Strip. It will only be enough to just reach behind the hook bend. It should only be attached in one point and that is just behind the hook eye.

Eyes: Black chain eyes

Main / Front Body: Hair from the gray zonker strip put in a dubbing loop, twisted and then wound around the eyes. Once it is done, and the thread is attached and cut of I brush out the hair and cut them down to a small pretty head.

Remember not to use too much hair. It easily becomes bulky and hard to trim a nice head. 

No.12 Peppermint rock Boobie

The Peppermint Rock Boobie 

This  boobie fly I composed and I started to fish with last year. It quickly became a favorite and delivered many nice rainbows. I wanted to get a little dimmed fly, yet the viable color combinations of red and white. I also wanted to exclude the tail on the fly to maybe find a pattern that provides more clean takes when the fish would otherwise just go and pull the flies' tails.

Material list

Hook: Kamasan B160

Thread: White UTC 70

Body: White Crystal chenille like Mini Gel Core Fritz, uv Diamond White and Medium Crystal Hackle, fl flame red. Both from Flybox.Co.uk 

Eyes: 6 mm White foam cylinder 

10 and 11. The Orange Nullermand and Converted Orange Nullermand

In the 80's when I seriously started fishing for seatrout on the coast with fly, the number of patterns that were counted as coastal flies were easily counted.
Just then, as now, it was the Danish coastal fishermen that where creative and including Jan Grünwald accounted for many published designs.
One pattern, that Jan had published, struck me early and that i used frequent was Orange Nullermand. A shrimp patterns that worked both as a hanger, on the leader and to bombarda fishing.
At that time there were not bombarda in itself. We fished with homemade throwing weights made of  round wood rods that was sanded down to a suitable form and weighted before they were painted and lacquered. For many years Nullermanden was a favorite pattern but with time it was left to oblivion, to a space in the fly box where it got to be undisturbed for many years, but then, a few years ago, it was put back on the fly-tippet and delivered a nice sea trout again.
After a while, when I was tying up new orange Nullermand I started thinking about converting the pattern with today's modern hooks and materials.
The converted pattern delivered almost immediately and now it along with the original pattern their place in the box

The Converted Orange Nullermand on top and the original bel ow

Converted Orange Nullermand
Materials List
Hook: Mustad C47 S shrimphook
Thread: Clear mono escape tying thread
Weight: 6-8 turns leadwire
Tail: 8-10 Golden Pheasant tippet fibers
Back: about 15 strands of dark olive or peacook green crystal flash
Back Cover: UV varnish
Rib: Small round goldtinsel
Hackle: Orange grizzly hackle
Body: Saltwater Dubbing, burnt orange,
Head: Tying thread

Original Orange Nullermand
Materials List
Hook: Double Salmon Hook size 6-12
Thread: Black
Tail: 8-10 Golden Pheasant tippet fibers
Back: 6-8 strands of Peacook hearl
Rib: Small round goldtinsel
Hackle: Orange grizzly hackle
Body: Orange chenille
Head: Tying thread

No 9. CDC Hatcher

CDC Hatcher

A fairly simple fly to tie the that often are cruelly effective when fish is crusingt and eating various insects in the surface. The fly can be varied in many color combinations and in various materials.
This particular variant is suited to fishing for hatching midges but by example tying in a couple of tails and tie a tapperad dubbed body with ribs we can imitate different hatching mayflies and excluded the tail we have a hatching caddispupa.
A basic pattern, in other words which is very adaptable to different fishing situations

CDC feathers have an incredibly good buoyancy and keeps much "air" both by the fine structure and its natural lubrication. 

 I prefer natural colored CDC feathers as they often have retained its natural lubrication. Colored CDC feathers have no natural fat when they are degreased so they can be dyed.

Materials List

Hook: Kamasan B100 Size 10-16 or similar hook. The important thing is that it's a curved hook  and with rather thin hook goods.

Thread: Black

Rib: A straw pearl flashabou

Body: Thin black flossilke or black binding wire.

Body Paint: Thin UV glue

Thorax: Peacook hearl

Wing bag: two pieces. gray or white cdc feathers. 

 1. Attach the flossilket or thread. Thread is prefered to the really small versions of this fly.

2. Tie in a straw flashabou and wrap flosset down to the bend. 

Cut away flashaboun sticking out the front of the hook shank / hook eye.

3. Wrap flossilket back and forth over the hook shank a few times so it forms a gently tapperad body. The body must cover about 2/3 of the hook shank.

4. Wrap flashaboun 6-7 laps forward over the body as a ribbing.

5. Apply a drop of thin UV varnish. 

I prefer Solarez UV products. It hardens incredibly well and is 100% non-stick

6. Distribute the UV varnish with a needle so it covers the hole body

7. Cure the UV varnisch a few seconds with a UV lamp.

8. Now take a CDC feather and attach it loosely in the spring tip of the hook over the side of the body beginning. The CDC feather must be attached so that the concave side, inwardly curved side facing up. The feather should be fastened so that it is located in a 30-degree angle out from the hook. 

Easily seen in the image nr10.

9. Pull back the cdc Feather slighty so it get the prefered angel and so that the tip does not protrude above the hook. Attach the feather a little harder with a pair of tighter turns with the thread.

10. Repete the procedure with the next feather. Here you see how the feathers are angled out from the hook.

11.

11-12. Tie in 3-4 peacook hearl on top, in between the CDC feathers

12,

13. Wind the peacock hearl forward towards the hook eye

14. Attach the hearl a few millimeters before the hook eye and cut off the remaining parts

15. We have now reached the stage where we should continue with the CDC feathers and now it is important that one has left little space between peacook hearl and the hook eye. Otherwise it will be too tight and there is a risk that you will cover parts of the hook eye when the fly is finished.

16. Take one of the cdc feathers and fold it over the chest so a small loop, bubble,  is formed. 

Secure with a couple of loose thread turns.

 

17. Adjust the feather loop by pulling the feather, for example with a hackle pliers while holding back the thread so it does not slide over the hook eye. The loop, the bubble, must should encapsulate the chest. This bubble has an amazing ability to trap air that contributes to the fly's buoyancy. Cut off the excess part of the cdc feather and attach it with a pair of tighter turns of thread.

 18. Repeat with the other feather.

19. From below you can see how the chest has been coverdt with the cdc feathers.

20. Cut away the rest of the second cdc feather also.

21. Finish with a small head. Attach and cut the thread. Varnish the head and the fly is finished

22. As i said, you can tye this type of flies in many varieties, but my favorites are this type, with either natural gray or white wing.

No 8. Tricolor Muddler.

Tricolor muddler has a color combination that is often found in my flypattern when i´m fishing after rainbow trout.
The combination of orange, yellow and white are often a winning combination and when it´s combined with deer hair as thorax / head we get a particularly poisonous fly.

Material list
Hook: Streamer hook strl 8-4
Thread: Heavy white tying thread
Tail: fluo orange marabou. The tail should be about 1/2 the length of the hook
Body: Pearl ice dub
Wing: Fluo yellow marabou. The wing should go back to the end of the tail on top of the wing I tie into 4 straw pearl flashabou
Head / over the wing. White deer hair.

No 7. The Parrot

The Parrot is a fly that I use often when the water temperature is a bit lower. Both sea trout and rainbow trout seem to like it.

Material list
Hook: Maruto C41SE. Streamer hook with a bent hook shank, size 4-8
Thread: Black
Tail: A small stack of hot orange fox hair. The length should be about 2/3 of the hook shank.
Body: Pearl Crystal hackle 5mm.
Wing: Fox hair. Yellow with green Highlander on top the yellow. The wing will reach back to the end of the tail. In between the different layers of the wing I tie in a 2 strands of pearl flashabou.
Hackle: A well marked Teal feather.
Overwing: A small stack of black fox hair tied in over the hackle and the yellow / green wing.
Head: Black tie wire lacquered 3-4 times and then painted eyes on the sides. White or yellow background with black pupills.
If you want to add some more weight to the flie you can use silver chain eys insted of painting the eyes.